Do you know that on average, there are two cats per Cypriot, and overall there are over one and a half million cats on the island? And did you know that the word "avrio" (tomorrow) has another meaning - never? And that from December to March, you can go skiing and take a dip in relatively warm waters within a couple of hours on Cyprus? But Cyprus is not just about the sea, beaches, and delicious food. During the two years of the pandemic, we have traveled around the island's perimeter several times and photographed everything we could, some places even more than once.
We invite you on a journey with an insider to the most delicious and beautiful places in Cyprus. We will tell you about the best wineries and restaurants, cozy villages, idyllic deserted beaches, and wonderful places away from tourist trails.
Depending on whether you arrive at Larnaca or Paphos Airport, we offer you two routes: one starting from the west of the island - Paphos, and the other from the southeast - Larnaca. And when your journey comes to an end, you will realize that you haven't seen everything and that it's worth coming back here more than once or twice, or even settling here and living in close proximity to your favorite beaches, citrus and olive groves, watercolor sunrises, and breathtaking sunsets, wineries, and ancient monuments.
Larnaca
So, if your point of arrival is Larnaca Airport, I recommend you stay in this town for at least one night. In Larnaca itself, you can take a walk along the beautiful Finikoudes promenade, which is the city's landmark.
In the same area, you will find a marina with yachts, and if you walk about a kilometer to the west, you will see Larnaca Castle. Right next to it is a mosque, and about 2-3 kilometers further along the promenade, you'll reach a quarter where the fish taverns drive you crazy with the aromas of freshly cooked delicacies. Just 200 meters from the castle is the Church of St. Lazarus, where, according to legend, the relics of the saint are kept.
In just a few minutes by car, you can reach the Larnaca Aqueduct and the Church of the Epiphany (Faneromeni), and then head to the Salt Lakes and the Umm Haram Sultan Tekke Mosque - the fourth most significant Muslim shrine in the world, built on the site of the death of the Prophet Muhammad's aunt.
If you visit between May and September, the Salt Lakes will greet you with their pristine whiteness. In the heat, the water evaporates, leaving behind only salt. From December to March, colonies of African flamingos winter on the lakes. It's definitely worth seeing!
Diving enthusiasts can explore the MS Zenobia - a ferry that sank near Larnaca and has become a pilgrimage site for divers from around the world. The resting place of the "Zenobia" is among the top ten diving sites. The ferry sank near Larnaca in 1980. With a displacement of 10,000 tons, a length of 178 meters, and a width of 28 meters, it embarked on its maiden voyage from the Swedish port of Malmo at the end of May 1980, never to return. Zenobia was heading to the Syrian port of Tartus. The upper deck, located at a depth of about 20 meters, is an ideal option for beginners, while the lower deck, resting beneath a forty-meter-thick layer of water, is of interest to experienced divers. The ship's interior deck, crew quarters, and cargo hold are extremely interesting but also highly dangerous places that require attention, experience, and great skill.
Kition is an ancient city-state that is essentially located within modern-day Larnaca. According to archaeological evidence, it was founded in the 13th century BCE and is considered one of the 10 oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Kition is mentioned in the Bible as Kitim. The most famous native of Kition is Zeno of Citium, the founder of the Stoic school of philosophy.
Ayia Napa and Protaras
On the next day, you can head east to Ayia Napa. If you are a beach lover, you will find the best beaches in Cyprus here. In the central part of the town, there is a square and the ancient monastery of Ayia Napa, followed by clubs. To get a complete impression of the vibrant nightlife, it's better to come here in the evening. The picturesque small port of Ayia Napa with colorful fishing boats is located about a kilometer from the central square.
From here, you can take a half-day cruise on the pirate frigate Black Pearl, which goes to Protaras and makes several stops at the most beautiful spots along the way. You can snorkel and admire the underwater world, while the excellent pirates take care of the children with entertaining programs. Lunch will be provided, and by 2-3 pm, you will be brought back to the port of Ayia Napa.
If you leave the port in an easterly direction, you can reach the wonderful Love Bridge in about 20 minutes, walking along the beach.
Here, you will find the ancient sycamore tree, Sycamore Tree, which is under the protection of the state. Diving enthusiasts can spend a couple of hours at the Underwater Sculpture Park.
Nissi Beach is a magnificent beach with white "powdery" sand and an islet about 30-40 meters from the shore, which can be reached by wading through a narrow strip of water. "Nissi" means "island" in Greek, which gave the beach its name. Thanks to the white sand, the water at this beach appears turquoise-blue, and the beach itself is comparable to the best beaches on tropical islands. In fact, it consistently ranks among the top 25 best beaches in the world and is one of the frequent Instagram hashtags.
The beach forms a small bay with no strong currents or waves. There are several bars and restaurants where you can have a snack and enjoy a cocktail. You can also engage in various water sports here, such as water skiing, parasailing, catamaran rides, or banana boat rides. Moreover, the beach offers stunning sunsets that can be observed from the shore or from a rented yacht.
The only drawback of this beach is its popularity and the crowds, even during the "off-peak" season. In summer, it's better to secure your sun loungers early because after 9-10 am, it becomes quite crowded, and around noon, the bars start playing club music, which may not be conducive to relaxation. But hey, it's Ayia Napa!
Equally beautiful beaches and completely Instagram-worthy views await you in Cape Greco. This place is located halfway between Ayia Napa and Protaras. Cape Greco rock and the adjacent Konnos Beach are places of extraordinary beauty. The Cape Greco National Forest Park is also located there.
If you happen to be in this area in spring, you will be treated to breathtaking views of the sea and the deserted coast, as well as wild narcissus and cyclamen flowers—a sight worth seeing at least once in a lifetime! In Cape Greco, you can take a walk along the seaside, hike in the mountains, go cycling, kayaking, snorkeling, or diving.
In Protaras, the main tourist attraction is Fig Tree Bay, a bay with a famous beach and an islet where the only tree, a fig tree, grows.
Another unique place that is definitely worth visiting is Potamos Liopetri, a natural fjord located west of Ayia Napa. There are the best fish taverns that buy fish directly from local fishermen. The fjord extends about a hundred meters into the sea, and the water here is incredibly warm and crystal clear. Beautiful large seashells from Mediterranean mollusks are scattered in the white sand.
You can stay overnight in one of the numerous hotels located in this area (make sure to book in advance, don't leave it for the last moment), and in the morning, after a swim and breakfast, we continue our journey to the central part of the island, where the capital city Nicosia and the Troodos mountain range await us.
Nicosia
Nicosia is the capital city of Cyprus. It is located in the southeast of Europe and has been the capital since the 10th century BC. Exploring Nicosia is best started in the old city, which is situated within the ancient Venetian walls. The old city is like a miniature world, with modern shops and partially ruined buildings that have remained in their state since the 1974 war. There are children's playgrounds, eerie streets, and ghettos where economic migrants reside. Cozy cafes, hipster restaurants serving chia and quinoa, and just a few meters away, an old shoemaker's kiosk worn by time. Brand-name stores coexist with ethnic shops run by migrants from Asia, Africa, and Eastern Europe, where you can buy affordable basmati rice, coconut oil, buckwheat, and spices.
The old city is a quintessence of smells, tastes, colors, and times, making every stroll through its narrow streets feel like a journey to another country. Here, historical buildings coexist with dilapidated structures, and trendy cafes and shops neighbor eerie doorless and unlit entrances where migrants find shelter. The reason for this is the border that passes through the city center, dividing it into two unequal parts: 5 bastions are located within the territory of the Republic of Cyprus, and 6 are on the occupied territories.
Two interesting and beautiful places along the perimeter of the walls are the Famagusta Gate in the eastern direction and the Paphos Gate in the western direction. Between them, there is a pleasant walk of about 2.5-3 km along the wall on a not too hot day. Inside the walls, there are also attractions worth seeing, such as the incredibly cozy Church of Archangel Michael Trypiotis, also known as Tripiotissa, the Church of the Epiphany (Faneromeni), the Church of St. Anthony, and the Church of St. Cassianos, which is located almost on the border with the occupied territories.
At the end of Lidras Street, there is a checkpoint through which you can enter the occupied territories of Cyprus, de facto controlled by Turkey. To reach there, you need to present your identification document, as no visas or entry/exit stamps are issued. The checkpoint is located in the tall building called Shacolas Tower (easy to find because the lower floors are occupied by an H&M clothing store). A landmark nearby is the Venetian bastion D'Avilla, which also serves as the Nicosia Municipality building. The Tourist Museum-Observatory is located on the eleventh floor of the tower. It is an elegant combination of a modern museum and an observation deck that offers panoramic views of Nicosia, including its occupied part.
Right next to the Municipality, you will find the fascinating Eleftheria's Square, whose design was created by the architect Zaha Hadid. The reconstruction of Eleftheria's Square took 12 years and required more investment than initially planned. It also led to several political scandals and high-profile resignations. However, the project was eventually completed and now the residents and visitors of the Cypriot capital have the opportunity to admire one of Zaha Hadid's last works before her death in 2016.
Another landmark in Nicosia is the beautiful building called The White Tower, designed by the world-renowned architect Jean Nouvel. You can read more about this architectural masterpiece here.
If you walk towards Famagusta Gate, after about 10-15 minutes at a leisurely pace, you will reach the ancient aqueduct (located on your left), and on the right, you will see a monument to the fighters for the independence of Cyprus.
Also in Nicosia, you can visit the Cyprus Museum, Leventis Art Gallery, Postal Museum, the Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis Kornesius House-Museum, stroll through the cozy streets of Laiki Gitonia, or take a walk in one of the Nicosia parks that resemble forests: Grammiko, Afalassa, Acropolis. There is also a beautiful park near the Kikkos Cathedral where newlyweds come to take photos.
If you want to see everything we've told you about, it's better to stay overnight in Nicosia and, after lunch the next day, head to the mountains, where you will encounter monasteries, picturesque mountain villages, incredibly sweet juicy cherries of the "petrokeroso" variety, traditional taverns and wineries, shady forest trails with clean and fresh air even in the unbearable July heat, and stunning waterfalls. On the way to the mountains, you can also visit the beautiful village of Fikardou, which is only a half-hour drive from Nicosia.
The most beautiful, interesting, and unusual places in the mountains, as well as in Limassol and Paphos on the southwest of the island, will be covered in the second part. Stay tuned for updates!
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