When we think of Cyprus, we immediately imagine golden beaches, how the azure sea sparkles in the sun and, perhaps, a glass of Commandaria with a gleaming reflection on its surface. But behind this Instagrammable picture hides another, no less exciting story, the one that's brewing and bubbling all over the island and even beyond its borders. The story of Cypriot beer! Just imagine, its roots go as far back as the Bronze Age. The history of the drink has survived the rises and falls of empires, and today it is experiencing a real revival. Well, are you interested in what kind of beer do Cypriots drink?
In this blog, I will guide you through all the facets of the foamy Cypriot drink: from its ancient origins and the era of dominance of iconic lagers to the innovative world of microbreweries and the vibrant culture of festivals.
Brewers of Cyprus in the Bronze Age
To understand Cypriot beer today, let's look deep into the millennia. As it turned out, brewing on the island is not at all a modern trend. The history goes back thousands of years! And have no doubt, beer was a staple for the ancient Cypriots. Numerous archaeological finds tell us about this: clay vessels and ingenious tools for brewing. Especially impressive are the ruins of a brewery with a banquet hall, which are an incredible 3500 years old — they were excavated not far from Paphos, in the little place Kissonerga-Skalia. Ovens were found there, which, as scientists believe, were used for drying malt before fermentation. Moreover, ancient Cypriots brewed beer not just from grain. Moreover, recently scientists were able to reconstruct a recipe from approximately 1800 B.C. — beer was then brewed with figs, launching fermentation with the help of wild yeasts from its very own peel. And the earliest mentions of the drink were found on clay tablets from the XIII century B.C. in the ancient city of Kition (Larnaca). Judging by the records, the drink by that time was already a traded commodity.
Periods of decline and revival
For several centuries, the beer tradition of Cyprus faded: with the arrival of the Ottoman Empire in the XVI century, the production of alcohol was prohibited. The British revived the industry in the late XIX century. As true connoisseurs, they founded breweries for the needs of their army, and this became a turning point. Ancient recipes gave way to industrial technologies, and the main beer of the island for many years to come became the light lager. That is why the modern craft movement in Cyprus is not just a tribute to fashion. It is an attempt to move beyond the "lager" heritage of the XX century and return to its unique, pre-industrial brewing culture.
KEO, Leon, Carlsberg — the pillars of Cypriot brewing
Today, one can single out a trio of leaders on the island's shelves. And these are not just competitors. Beers are continuously fighting for the title of the most authentic beer of the island. And each has its own weighty arguments.
The first drink with a honey-golden color, brewed on the island in 1937 at the brewery of Christodoulos Platani — Leon — for over 10 years remained the only option of the foamy drink on an industrial scale. Its history has survived a lot. In 1968, the story of Leon, it seemed, was cut short. The brewery passed to new owners, received a license to produce Carlsberg and shut down the production of their flagship product. But 35 years later, in June 2003, Leon made a huge comeback. The beer returned to the shelves, brewed according to that very original "All Malt" recipe: only barley malt, hops and yeast, nothing extra. Accordingly, Leon's identity is built on being the first.
KEO beer, released in 1951 by the Cyprus Wine Company, became a true national symbol. The pilsner-style light lager was developed by Czech brewers. Its authenticity is built not on chronology, like Leon's, but on cultural recognition and icon status. Now it is rightly called the "taste of Cyprus," and recognition came earlier, in 1987, when KEO won a gold medal at the Brewing Industry International Awards competition.
Carlsberg occupies a special place. In 1967, Photos Photiades Breweries received a license for its production. Thus Cyprus became the first country outside of Denmark where the famous lager was brewed. Today Carlsberg has so firmly entered Cypriot life that it is rightly considered a local drink. It is the absolute market leader, and for good reason: back in 1997, the Carlsberg concern itself recognized the Cypriot plant as the best among all its international breweries.
The flourishing of craft beer in Cyprus
In recent years in Cyprus, as all over the world, a real craft revolution is happening. Microbreweries, which are focused on quality, not quantity, are changing the history of the island. As the tastes of local beer lovers were becoming more and more exquisite, craft breweries answered with a wave of new styles — from IPAs and ales to stouts and sours. But craft in Cyprus is more than just beer. It is a community of passionate people who gather together for tastings, hold lectures and organize very authentic and welcoming festivals.
Local ingredients in beer
As we said above, the key feature of the Cypriot craft movement is the revival of the connection with the island's roots. Thanks to the use of local ingredients, they create new, and sometimes reviving forgotten, tastes.
Figs and herbs. The Octo brewery revived a Bronze Age ale recipe.
Grapes. The same Octo create a Grape Ale, using the local grape variety Xynisteri.
Pomegranate. Lofou Microbrewery (BES beer) brews a pomegranate sour all year round.
Citrus and fruits. Hula Hops is famous for its Cyprus Citrus IPA, and Aphrodite's Rock makes ciders from Cypriot fruits.
Experiments. And for the true foodies! In the limited series, you can find beer with the addition of carob, tahini, and even a sour with the taste of tzatziki sauce.
The craft scene today is very diverse and each brewery is unusual in its own way. One can single out several leading producers, looking at the menu of which you definitely won't get bored.
In the building of a former Paphos winery, not so long ago, a British family founded the first licensed microbrewery on the island — Aphrodite's Rock Brewing Company. In their assortment are real English ales, IPAs, lagers and ciders from local fruits. Their brewpub and production tours are popular not only with tourists. The innovative Octo Microbrewery, located in the village of Sotira (near Paralimni) is famous not only for its bold novelties, but also for its passion for history. Their flagship Cyprus Bronze Age Ale (ale with figs and herbs) and Cyprus Grape Ale (with grapes). The brewery also has a museum with tours. In the capital of Cyprus, Nicosia, the first microbrewery — Pivo Microbrewery — was opened in 2015 in a cool historic building. The basis of the assortment is Czech styles, but they also brew IPAs and ales. The capital's Humor Beer project grew from a home-based to a technologically advanced production and offers a wide line of unpasteurized beer: IPA, Pilsner, Weiss and American oatmeal stout. Lofou Microbrewery in the foothills of the Troodos mountain range in the village of Lofou produces beer under the brand BES, it is known for experimental sours, especially pomegranate.
The largest beer festivals
Festivals can be large, for a wide audience, and small, for true connoisseurs of craft. It all depends on what you want: a noisy party or an immersion in the art of brewing and taste. A distinctive feature of local events: the probability of meeting an excessively drunk person is reduced to practically zero. But if this happens, the person will receive immediate help from specialists.
So, the largest beer fests take place in cities and last for several days. They are accompanied by a great music lineup, tasty street food and a great mood. Among the most popular are Paphos Beer Festival, MedFest Limassol Beer Festival, Nicosia Beer Fest/Septemberfest.
For true connoisseurs of the drink — local craft events. The one-day event Cyprus Craft Beer Festival gathers the nation's leading craft breweries under one roof. Perhaps, the best place to get acquainted with the entire local scene at once. And here the annual festival The Full Pint in Nicosia — is a story of amazing growth. Once it was a modest meeting of home brewers, and now, under the aegis of their Association, it has turned into a large event. Its main value is the opportunity to try exclusive varieties brewed by enthusiasts at home. Village beer festivals, for example, in Tembria and Palendri, where tasting is combined with a traditional village atmosphere.
Pairing Cypriot beer and cuisine
Traditionally in Cyprus, light refreshing lagers are served with meat meze — a set of various appetizers. The clean taste of lagers perfectly complements the rich dishes included in the meze: grilled meat (souvlaki), halloumi cheese, sheftalia sausages.
The new wave of craft beer opens up boundless opportunities for gourmands. The hoppy bitterness of Cypriot IPAs pairs perfectly with spicy loukanika sausages. Refreshing weissbier and witbier will be a wonderful addition to the freshest sea meze. A dense stout can create an interesting pair with the smoky taste of lountza (smoked pork loin) or even with desserts based on local carob syrup. A fruity pomegranate sour will create a fantastic contrast with the saltiness of grilled local halloumi cheese.
As you can see, the beer culture of Cyprus has come a long way — from light lagers to exciting craft compositions in the spirit of the Bronze Age. The future is looking bright and foamy! To truly feel it, you need to at least go beyond the supermarket assortment. Drop into the brewpubs, the capital's craft bars and, of course, don't miss a local beer festival. Ultimately, exploring a nation through its beer is something new, where it's important not to overdo it on the path to the important discovery of its wild soul.
